Kickapoo River – Bridge 14 to Bridge 18

Many consider the Kickapoo to be the best paddle in Southern Wisconsin (and it’s certainly one of the most popular). Typical trips are clustered between Ontario and Rockton, where rock outcrops are most frequent. By contrast, the downstream leg from Rockton to La Farge sees much less traffic. Here, too, riverside cliffs appear, but while less frequent, they tend to be bigger and more impressive.  Our goal was to explore this somewhat overlooked stretch.  

The Kickapoo River is spoiled with great launch options, making alternative trips easy to customize. In our case, we opted for a short trip, starting at Bridge 14 (just below Rockton).

The paddle began with steep, narrow valleys, scenic wooded bluffs, and a surprisingly brisk current.  Although the day was very hot, temps were moderate in the valley and the water was cold from the river’s numerous springs.

We soon reached the mouth of Weister Creek, which has been on my to-do list as a possible future run. Light rapids tumbled down a small rock ledge in front of a sandstone wall, accompanied by a blast of cool air (the creek is also spring-fed). A logjam, though, dissuaded us from exploring further (likely just one among many).

Just after Weister Creek was the first outcrop of the trip. While modest in size relative to others we would see later, it was attractive, with an undercut base, walls lined with lichens and moss, seeps raining down the edge, and a crest topped with hemlocks and pines (like candles on a birthday cake). A second outcrop soon followed, significantly larger and longer.

Unlike the Ontario-Rockton stretch, this part of the river doesn’t get as much cleanup work. We ran into several downed trees in swift current. None required portaging, but a few demanded quick reactions and kept us on our toes. The most significant obstacle was at Outcrop #2. It appears most paddlers portage up the steep, sandy bank on the left, but we were able to squeak through the branches on the far right.

Shortly after Bridge 15 was the best outcrop of the trip (if not the entire river). What made it so impressive wasn’t just its large size, but the way it curved along the river bend, giving it character. Opposite the wall was a small sandbar where paddlers sometimes take a break. Fourteen years ago, during my last run here, this spot was crowded with people, so I was surprised we didn’t run into a single person on this trip. In stark contrast, I’m sure the upper stretch near Ontario was packed with tubers and blaring radios.

This was actually the start of a series of large outcrops. The next rock wall featured a tall sandstone pillar leaning against the main cliff, forming a cool cave/tunnel (only visible from the downstream side). Unfortunately, it was clogged with logs and mud, but if ever cleared out, you could pass right through (at least in high water). The last in this series of cliffs was a 900-foot-long monster (very impressive). Bridge 16 was just around the bend, bringing an end to the best and most impressive geology of the trip.

After Bridge 16, the valley widened and the river really opened up. I’m not sure this leg will be as popular with paddlers due to fewer outcrops and tall, weedy banks. It’s not a bad stretch of river, though. The current was enjoyable with even a few light rapids, occasional wildflowers topped the banks, and the shoreline was undeveloped (no road noise, no agriculture, no homes). Over the final few miles, there were still several noteworthy rock formations, although most were not as impressive as those upstream of Bridge 16.

Much of this area was originally slated to become a 1,780-acre “Lake La Farge.”  The project was supposed to be for flood control, but plans evolved into a recreational lake. Developers bought up land along the proposed shoreline hoping to get rich. Their plans included subdivisions, marinas, hotels, and restaurants. It would have been an over-developed resort area, similar to Lake Redstone (shudders). Many of the unique rock formations would have been drowned. In a miracle (that I doubt would happen in today’s political environment), the dam was permanently halted. The land intended for the lake was instead set aside to be managed by the Kickapoo Valley Reserve (along with the Ho-Chunk Nation) as a low-impact recreation area.

After one final long cliff, we were surprised to round a bend and see Bridge 18, our take-out. We never saw Bridge 17 and learned later it had washed out. The take-out area was situated on a scenic, wooded hill overlooked by a covered bridge. We didn’t see anyone else at the landing, but soon learned why:  it was a grueling 600-foot hike uphill to reach the parking area, which I doubt most paddlers have the patience or energy for. If you’re looking for an easier take-out, you’re better off ending your trip down in La Farge, where there is a good take-out.

All in all, this was a great trip. While paddlers might not rate it quite as high as the upper sections, it’s still an easy five stars in my book. It would also be fun to come back for an “ice paddle” during late winter or early spring. I’m sure the ice formations clinging to those cliffs would be dramatic.

Noteworthy Wildlife:

Sights include an eagle, a few dragonflies, one blue heron, one merganser, and 5-6 kingfishers.  What was striking was how few birds and animals we saw.

Local Diversions:

Kickapoo Valley Reserve:  This is an 8,000+ acre land reserve along the Kickapoo River.  Recreational opportunities include camping, skiing, horseback riding, biking, stargazing, and more. A unique highlight is touring the fantastic late-winter ice formations (usually at their peak in late February and early March).  These are best viewed from a boat, but some can be hiked to, including the “Valley of Ice”.   

Kickapoo Valley Reserve Visitor Center:  A museum and nature center focusing on the ecology, culture, and history of the Kickapoo area. It is located just north of La Farge.

Wildcat Mountain State Park:  While often conflated with KVR, this state park is a completely separate property located further north (upstream) on the Kickapoo River. The park features campsites, a scenic overlook, and hiking trails. Like KVR, it features impressive winter ice formations, with the most accessible being at the end of the Ice Cave Trail.

Camping: The best camping is available at Wildcat Mountain State Park, but it can fill up quickly. There are more rugged and secluded primitive campsites in the Kickapoo Valley Reserve, including riverside paddle-in sites. The communities of Ontario, La Farge, Viola, Soldiers Grove, and Readstown also offer camping in their municipal parks. Private campgrounds include Mr. Duck’s Canoe Rental (Ontario), Titanic Canoe Rental (Ontario), and Tunnel Trail Campground (Wilton).

Put-in:

Bridge 14:  This is a nice public access area with an outhouse off County Road P. The only downside is that the current is a bit brisk at the ramp. Note that you must pay $5 for a KVR parking pass (state park passes do not count). You can pay for these online or at the KVR Visitor Center.

Alt Put-ins:

• Bridge 12 (2.4 miles upstream from put-in):  Located just downstream from the Hwy 131 bridge and Rockton, this is a good access point, though it requires a $5 KVR parking pass. The leg between Bridge 12 and Bridge 14 is a nice stretch with five noteworthy outcrops (three of which are huge).
• Bridge 10 (3.8 miles upstream from the put-in):  Good landing, although a KVR pass is required. The leg between Bridges 10 and 12 is less interesting, but there are still three or four mediocre outcrops.
• Bridge 8 (6.3 miles upstream from the put-in):  A trickier bridge access without a dedicated landing. The leg between Bridges 8 and 10 is very good, featuring five to six outcrops.
• Bridge 7 (7.7 miles upstream from the put-in):  A great and very popular access point, though the current near the ramp is strong. A KVR pass is required, but a self-pay station is on site. The leg between Bridges 7 and 8 is mediocre, with just three outcrops.

Take-out:

Bridge 18:  Located just upstream from the covered bridge, this is an incredibly scenic landing. Most paddlers avoid it because the parking area is 600 ft up a steep hill, but if you don’t mind dragging your boat, it’s a secluded and attractive spot.

Alt Take-outs:

• La Farge Landing (4.1 miles downstream from Bridge #14):  A good access point with an outhouse.  This final leg is more open with just a few minor sandstone cliffs.  The route does go by the historic site of the uncompleted La Farge Dam and dike.

Shuttle & Rental Information:

Bike Shuttle – Bridge 18 to Bridge 14:  2.7 miles with 36′ of ascent. This is a treat for bike shuttlers, as you can use the scenic Old Hwy 131 Trail, which is now dedicated exclusively to skiing, horseback riding, and biking. At just 2.7 miles, a hiking shuttle is actually viable if you’re not in the mood for biking.

Rentals/Shuttles:  There are a number of local rental and shuttle liveries with most based in Ontario.  Call in advance to ensure availability:

• Kickapoo Wild Adventures:  (608) 337-4522 – 30352 State Hwy 131, Norwalk, WI 54648
• Drifty’s Canoe Rental:  (608) 337-4288 – Highway 33 & 131, Ontario, WI 54651
• Fred Flasher’s Canoe Camping Trips:  (608) 435-6802 – PO Box 114, Wilton, WI 54670
• Mr. Ducks Canoe Rental:  (608) 337-4711 – 100 Main Street, Ontario, Wisconsin 54651
• Titanic Canoe Rental:  (877) 438-7865  – 300 State Highway 131, Ontario, WI 54651

Hazards, Logjams and Current:

Current:  This was surprisingly quick, with several light rapids.

Quicksand:  It’s not uncommon for paddlers to take breaks on the small sandbars and even do a little bit of swimming. However, you should be careful where you wade, as quicksand (more so quickmud) is also present in spots.

Logjams:  There were two partial logjams.

• Logjam #1:  Located midway along a long outcrop. I saw signs that most paddlers portage the left bank, which is a bit steep. We were able to squeeze through on the far right side (barely). A logjam limbo isn’t recommended for everyone, as there’s tricky current here and not all boats will fit.
• Logjam #2:  This wasn’t too difficult to slide over. But note that the current is quick here, and in low water this might have to be portaged.

Strainers/Sweepers:  There are a surprising number of them, which combined with the quick current makes this a deceptively unforgiving stretch. If you’re a beginner paddler, I suggest gaining a bit of experience before attempting this section. Intermediate paddlers shouldn’t have problems; just stay away from the edges. The current will get much pushier and more dangerous when water levels are high.

Flooding:  Because of the area’s steep bluffs and runoff, the Kickapoo is notorious for its fast and high flooding.  Paddlers and campers need to stay tuned to weather forecasts.

River Depth and Navigability:

Closest Gauge: Kickapoo River @ Ontario

Trip Depth: 65 CFS or 8.52′

Navigability Estimates:  Avoid the La Farge stretch during high water. Frequent strainers and swift currents make high depths fast, pushy, and unforgiving.

• 8.0-8.2:’  A low depth with maybe some wading.
• 8.3-8.7′:  Average depth.
• 8.8-9.0′:  A high depth. River will be dirty and pushy in spots. Special care will need to be taken to avoid the dangerous strainers and sweepers.
• 9.1-9.4′:  Very high depth. Only suitable for advanced paddlers.
• 9.5-9.8′:  Maybe too high for paddling. Much of the river will be safe… but a few select spots with fast current next to downed trees will be too dangerous.
• 9.9’+: Extremely high conditions.

Quick Overview

• Wilton to Ontario:  12 miles.  This stretch is seldom paddled, but is cleaner and faster than downstream legs.  Those willing to endure weedy bridge accesses and occasional snags will be rewarded with spectacular outcrops.  A very underrated part of the river.
• Ontario to Rockton:  13.5 miles.  This is the most popular section for kayaking on the river (if not the entire state).  Highlights include many spectacular sandstone outcrops.  This stretch can easily be subdivided.  Shuttle services are plentiful, but this leg can get crowded and noisy during summer weekends.
• Rockton to La Farge:  11 miles.  This is the second most popular stretch of the river.  While the outcrops here aren’t as numerous as the Ontario leg, they do tend to be larger and more impressive.
• La Farge to Mouth:  ~90 miles.  After La Farge there are few rock outcrops and the river becomes much less interesting.  The Lower Kickapoo is a generic hardwood floodplain that is at best a mediocre paddle.
• Tributaries:
  • Kickapoo River – West Fork:  While lacking the outcrops of the main branch and a bit shallow in spots, this is a very underrated river with many fun rapids.
  • Billings Creek:  I actually like this creek better than the main river itself.  There are just as many outcrops, and the water and banks are much cleaner.
  • Tainter Creek:  While not very big and lacking in outcrops, it’s still a cool creek with very swift current.

Detailed Overview

• Upstream from Lincoln Ave:  The river is likely too small and degraded by open pasture to have much appeal for kayaking.  Although "Kickapoo Springs" (the primary source of the river and a public DNR area) might be interesting.
• Lincoln Ave to Keystone Road:  2.5 miles.  The river is small here (likely too small for most paddlers) and more scruffy with fewer outcrops.  Figure 1-2 logjams and 3 outcrops.  Several of the Elroy-Sparta Trail bridges over the river are quite scenic/rustic.  High water will be required to do this stretch.
• Lincoln Ave to Hwy 131 (East of Midge Road):  6.3 miles.
  • Lincoln Ave to Hwy 71:  1.6 miles.  This section includes five outcrops, including one really nice one.  The river is shallow here with many Class 1 rapids.  There is one strainer that has to be portaged, but no other logjams.  I encountered a bull on this stretch (here) which might be a deal breaker for most paddlers.  You could possibly portage around the farm in question along the Elroy-Sparta Trail but it would be a long and difficult portage.
  • Hwy 71 to Wilton Campground/Library:  0.7 miles.  A nice stretch with ~3 mediocre outcrops and one really nice one.  Water clarity is stunning here.  There is a low tree that requires some tight ducking to get under.
  • Wilton Campground/Library to Hwy 131 (by Posey Creek):  1.4 miles.  Less attractive stretch but still ~4 mediocre outcrops.  There is a serious logjam by Water Street that must be portaged.
  • Hwy 131 (by Posey Creek) to Hwy 131 (by Mica Rd):  1.3 miles.  A terrific stretch with scenic pine trees, several mediocre outcrops and one fantastic sandstone outcrop.
  • Hwy 131 (by Mica Rd) to Hwy 131 (East of Midge Rd):  0.7 miles.  More of a scruffy stretch, but still a few mediocre outcrops.  The Black Valley hills in the distance are very scenic from this leg.
• Hwy 131 (East of Midge Road) to Hwy 131 (near Nicollet Ave):  4.1 miles.
  • Hwy 131 (east of Midge) to Hwy 131 (by Michigan Ave):  0.5 miles.  A good leg with one nice set of outcrops.
  • Hwy 131 (by Michigan Ave) to Hwy 131:  0.6 miles.  Another good leg with 3 outcrops.  Some minor rapids, including a 4-6" ledge.
  • Hwy 131 to Hwy 131 (by Nisswa Rd):  0.6 miles.  One of the best legs on the Upper Kickapoo which features 6 noteworthy outcrops and terrific ice flows in February and early March.
  • Hwy 131 (by Nisswa Rd) to Hwy 131 (by Nordale Ave):  1.1 miles.  Not as scenic as other legs with messy shorelines and eroded banks.  There are still a few nice outcrops.
  • Hwy 131 (by Nordale Ave) to Hwy 131 (by Nicollet Ave):  1.3 miles.  Another one of the Upper Kickapoo's best legs with ~6 outcrops, including a small natural bridge you can paddle through.
• Hwy 131 (near Nicollet Ave) to Ontario:  5 miles.
  • Hwy 131 (by Nicollet Ave) to Hwy 131 (Oil City):  2.3 miles.  Two long stretches of bluffs contain great outcrops. 
  • Hwy 131 (Oil City) to Hwy 131 (Kickapoo Wild Adventures):  1.4 miles.  Terrific stretch with two major outcrops.  One set of Class 2 rapids.
  • Hwy 131 (Kickapoo Wild Adventures) to Ontario (Brey Valley Road Park):  1.5 miles.  Three sets of outcrops.
• Ontario to Hwy 131/Bridge #4:  3.6 miles.  A more open and flatter stretch of the Kickapoo.  There are still 3-4 outcrops. This is THE most popular leg on the entire river.
• Bridge #4 to Bridge #7:  6.0 miles.
  • Bridge #4 to Wildcat Landing:  3.1 miles.  A super popular stretch and the most scenic on the Kickapoo.  The river flows past steep hillsides and many outcrops (at least 16).
  • Wildcat Landing to Bridge #5:  0.9 miles.  The river opens up a bit, but still has three super sandstone outcrops.
  • Bridge #5 to Bridge #7:  2.1 miles.  A good stretch with seven major outcrops and one cave.
• Bridge #7 to Bridge #14:  7.7 miles.
  • Bridge #7 to Bridge #8:  1.2 miles.  From bridge #7 onward, the Kickapoo becomes much less interesting.  There are still some good spots though.  This stretch has maybe 3 outcrops.
  • Bridge #8 to Bridge #10:  2.5 miles.  A good stretch with 5-6 outcrops.
  • Bridge #10 to Rockton/Landing #12:  1.4 miles.  This stretch is more open, and less interesting.  But there are still  3-4 mediocre outcrops.
  • Rockton to P/Bridge 14 Canoe Landing:  2.4 miles.  A scenic stretch with 5 noteworthy outcrops–three of which are huge.
• Bridge #14 to Bridge #18:  5.1 miles.  A great stretch with a covered bridge and 5+ outcrops...several of which are huge (the largest on the river).
• Bridge #18 to La Farge:  4.1 miles.  This is a more open stretch with just 2-3 outcrops.  It's more open and less interesting, but not bad and includes a historic stretch past the uncompleted La Farge dam.
• La Farge to Hwy 131 (by Ski Hill Road):  6.8 miles.  Nice section but with a few jams. 
• Hwy 131/Ski Hill Road to Viola (Banker Park):  7.0 miles.  Maybe 2 bluffs, but mostly open I think.  Have been told there are 26 portages between La Farge and Viola, so beware.
• Viola to Hwy 131 - Bridge 1:  5.8 miles.  Maybe one outcrop and 14 major logjams.
• Hwy 131 - Bridge 1 to Hwy 131 - Bridge 2:  4.3 miles.  Maybe one outcrop and 13 major logjams.
• Hwy 131 Bridge 2 to Readstown Tourist Park:  3.0 miles.  Maybe one outcrop and three major logjams.  The river grows significantly with the addition of the West Fork.
• Readstown Tourist Park to Soldiers Grove:  6.9 miles.
  • Readstown to Hwy 61:  3.1 miles.  A surprisingly nice stretch with impressive hills and good current.  On the downside there is a lot of tree debris although it is always avoidable.  Hwy 61 is not a good access.
  • Hwy 61 to Soldiers Grove:  3.8 miles.  Not as good as the previous leg with fewer hills, muddier banks, and slower current, but still not bad.  The highlights include a few impressive bluffs and two minor rapids in Soldiers Grove.
• Soldiers Grove to Hwy B:  9.0 miles. I doubt there are logjams, but I think this stretch would not be very interesting.  The river flows through one of the wider flood bottoms on the river.
• Hwy B to Hwy S:  8.6 miles.
  • Hwy B to Gays Mills:  4 miles.  Fast stretch with some strainers.  Bank quality is poor, but the bluffs are attractive.  A dam in Gays Mills slows the last mile of this leg.
  • Gays Mills to Hwy S:  4.6 miles.  A pleasant but not elite leg with some nice bluff vistas.
• Hwy S to Haney Valley Road:  5.8 miles.
• Haney Valley Road to Taylor Ridge Road:  3.6 miles.  Likely an ok prospect.  Note, Taylor Ridge Road is aggressively fenced by the local farmer and would be a difficult access.
• Taylor Ridge Road to Steuben Landing:  5.0 miles.  A good prospect with likely some nice bluffs.  Note, Taylor Ridge Road is aggressively fenced by the local farmer and would be a difficult access.
• Steuben Landing to Hwy 179:  2.9 miles.  A mediocre prospect.
• Hwy 179 to Plum Creek Landing:  11.8 miles.  A good prospect with nice bluffs.
• Plum Creek Landing to Hwy 60:  6.7 miles.  Starts uninteresting with fast current, but features some surprisingly nice bluffs and overall was a decent trip.
• Hwy 60 to Lowell Geitz Memorial Boat Landing:  2.7 miles.  This stretch mostly lacks interesting bluffs but does feature wetgrass and floodplain forests as part of the Wauzeka Bottoms State Natural Area.
• Take-out options on the Wisconsin River:
  • Lowell Geitz Memorial Boat Landing to Adiantum Woods State Natural Area:  2.5 miles.  This is mostly a downstream trip on the Wisconsin River.

Trip Map

Overview Map

Video

Photos

Size:

Bridge 14 Landing

Paddling upstream toward Bridge 14 (Cty Rd P)

Corrosion from prior floods

Checking out Weister Creek (doesn't look good for deadfall)

First outcrop of the trip

Carpets of liverworts clung to the moist rock surfaces

Outcrop #2

Part of a longer rock face

An unfortunate logjam

Just barely able to squeak through the far side

Dragonfly exuvia

Impressive cliff

Reverse view showing hemlocks hanging from the cliff's brow

This wall would look larger and longer if not for the fallen tree

Bridge #15--only a trail bridge now (Old Hwy 131 Trail)

Coming up on Outcrop #3

My favorite part of the trip

Reverse view

Very tall alcove

Cool how the rock faces curve with the river

Another logjam...this was easy to hop over

Small cave

Approaching Outcrop #4

Massive slab of sandstone leaning against the larger bluff

If ever cleaned out, this would be a cool tunnel to paddle through

By my account this is Outcrop #5

The largest and longest (perhaps on the entire river)

Hemlock branches hanging down all over the place

Bridge #16--Old Hwy 131 Trail (where old Hwy 131 used to go)

River becomes much more open after Bridge #16

Riverside campsite (operated by KVR)

Outcrop #6

This one is very undercut

What's left of Bridge #17

Lots of wildflowers on the trip

Very steep hills in Kickapoo country

Taking a break on one of the nicer sandbars

A large rocky bank

Light rapids

White pines ahead--that means another outcrop is coming up

Outcrop #7

Example of a strainer in fast current (very dangerous...stay away from them)

Giant swallowtail butterflies on a mud flat

Unfortunately there is a lot of dead tree debris in the river

Approaching Outcrop #8

This is a nice one

Also one of the longer cliffs

More liverworts--they were everywhere on the lower rock surfaces

Last cliff of the trip

Yum

Bridge #18

We ended the trip at the landing here

Cool covered bridge

View from the bridge looking at the landing

Problem with Landing 18? Long haul up a hill to reach parking

A pink and orange coneflower near the parking area

Checking out the KVR Visitor Center after the trip